There’s only one Madonna in America, and that’s mega-pop singer, actress and style icon Madonna Louise Veronica Secombe. For Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, that’s not entirely the case. And, of course, there’s Madonna, who first wore Dolce & Gabbana to promote her documentary Truth or Dare in 1991 and is still wearing the brand three decades later. But there’s also the original meaning of the word, which translates to “my woman” in an old form of Italian.

The brand’s spring 2025 runway show paid tribute to the star and other beloved women of the D&G firmament. “Madonna has always been one of our role models,” the designer exclusively told Esquire after the show. Describing other women who inspired the collection, he added: “The women this season are from the world of cinema, the great divas of the past, pin-ups: a woman who has always used her personality and at the same time has always been herself. It’s true.” Reach out.

This reference is clearly visible when you enter the backstage of the Met in Milan. The backstage espresso bar — a decidedly Italian feel I’ve never seen at a fashion show in New York or Paris — was filled with models in transition, giggling and taking their last sips of caffeine, True Blue, playing hits like “The Prayer” and “Sensual.”

From Mona and Vitora to Mariacarla and Anouk, every model’s hair was pulled back into a platinum blonde wig with a lace front to match Madonna’s 1990s signature color. “Blonde, blonde, blonde, blonde,” the designer joked of the look, which included a simple black headband. Each wig comes pre-styled with a hairpin and held securely in place with crease-free clips. Faye Wong couldn’t help but look at herself in the mirror and say it was the first time she saw herself blonde. (It’s yet to be decided whether she’ll do that herself.)

Since then, the makeup (all Dolce & Gabbana Beauty, which launched in the U.S. mid-last year) has only added to each model’s transformation. It starts with Blueberry Nutri-Tint Hydra-Glow and Fresh Skin Tint, but the dramatic eyeliner (That’s My Line! 24-Hour Waterproof Eyeliner) creates a sharp line that feels both Italian movie-y and Madonna-esque. Next, the Everkiss liquid lip was applied, with each model getting an almond-shaped press to match the lipgloss-inspired look.

When the show began, of course, sitting in the front row was the one and only Madonna — though it’s worth noting that her own beauty look was very different from the models. Wearing her hair in loose waves, she wore the brand’s signature dramatic black voile and tiara. Ask Runway’s Nicole Phelps reports that after the show, Madonna told the designer, “I want it all the same.”

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Last Update: September 22, 2024