Most people who visit Georgia, a tiny country located on the edge of the Greater Caucasus region, do so for hiking or wine tasting. Or both. Just a two-hour drive from the capital, Tbilisi, Kakheti, known as “Little Tuscany,” is one of Georgia’s most beautiful regions, offering views of endless mountain and vineyards and producing some of the most beautiful famous wines. As one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world, its ancient qvevri winemaking technique — aging wine in large clay pots — dates back more than 8,000 years and has become popular around the world in recent years. (It has also been declared a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage.) Orange wine, also known as amber wine, is a long-matured white wine and one of Kakheti’s most famous wine styles. They have the freshness of white wine and the depth of red wine, making them perfect for cuisines like Georgia, while also offering lots of contrasting flavors and textures.
Furthermore, Georgia has around 500 endemic grape varieties, of which only 7 were cultivated during the Soviet era. The most common varieties in Kakheti are Mtsvane, Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. Due to its climate – lots of sunshine and fertile soil – it is also home to some of Georgia’s tastiest produce. Think juicy tomatoes, succulent peaches and nutty roasted sunflower oil.
The best time to visit is at the end of summer, when grapes and produce are at their peak. Kakheti’s vast valleys and vineyards make it an ideal place for a road trip, with sunny roads stretching from the capital, Telavi, with its unique stone houses, to the high hills of Sighnaghi.
Here’s how to enjoy the best views of Kakheti.
Where to stay
Nekrasi Manor
Inspired by the wooden architecture of Tbilisi’s old houses and located near the monastery of the same name, Nekresi Estate welcomes guests to a rustic retreat amid vineyards, as if it were a winery. Owners Oto Tabatadze and Temo Ninoshvili left the corporate world to pursue their dreams. Enjoy a bottle of golden pâté-nat by the poolside – Nekresi Estate is one of the few wineries in the region to produce natural sparkling wine – until dinner arrives, courtesy of Georgia’s most renowned chef, Tekuna Gachechiladze Celebration makes this place a must-visit, not only for hotel guests, but also for everyone visiting Kakheti. The open kitchen next to the vegetable garden serves local cuisine. Or the fig carpaccio, thinly sliced, garnished with gouda cheese and sprinkled with ajika oil and Georgian chili sauce. This dish is best enjoyed with creamy grilled peaches while watching the sunset over the vineyards.
Quarreli Lake Resort
The new part of Lake Kvareli Resort just opened in June and is ideally located with stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains on one side and the vineyards of the Alazani Valley on the other, making it a perfect base for exploring Kakheti. If you really want to get away from it all, head to the 300 hectares of forest surrounding the luxury resort of Lake Kvareli and admire its charming minimalist beauty in warm colours and the fresh air of coriander and vinegar from the nearby river. Kakheti specialities such as catfish will definitely keep you coming back for more.
© Lost Ridge Inn
Located in the suburb of Sighnaghi, the Lost Ridge Inn describes itself as a boutique inn, craft brewery and horse farm. Connected to Pheasant’s Tears (see below) through co-owner and brewer John Vorderman, you can be assured of a real bounty. Dinner and breakfast are prepared by rustic women, using ingredients from the hotel’s own vegetable garden (which also supplies the restaurant). You can also take a cooking class and learn how to make khinkali dumplings or flatbreads. Come here to relax, enjoy good food and take in the surrounding nature.
Where to eat and drink
it came out
If you ask anyone in Georgia where to eat in Telavi, they’ll say Dolly. With a state-of-the-art public hotel and popular craft-wine-related restaurant in Tbilisi, it’s easy to see why: the kitchen is stocked with huge plates called khoncha, full of dishes that reflect the flavors of Kakheti Georgian specialties. Smooth bean hummus. Also, don’t miss the oolong grilled oyster mushrooms. Add to this their famous homemade dori flatbread and you’ll have a delicious lunch or dinner accompanied by some of Kakheti’s best natural wines.
Odalisque Cheese
With no sign on the street and only two tables outside, Odalisi Cheese is a real gem hidden in the beautiful courtyard of Telavi. One of the few artisan cheese makers in Georgia, the family-owned business is run by head cheese maker Rati Rostomashvili, while his wife Maka and daughters welcome guests in the quaint cheese shop and bar. They opened in 2022 and now offer 32 different types of raw milk cheese: infused with walnuts, nettle, truffle, and even cumin. If you want to try the cheese selection with wine, book in advance and the charming candlelit room within the stone walls of an old school house offers a unique dining experience.
Partridge’s Tears
Pheasant’s Tears in Siganaghi is renowned as one of the pioneers of the natural wine movement, and though it’s been around for about 20 years, the winery/restaurant is still a great place to creatively highlight local ingredients and celebrate ancient Georgian traditions. The winery was founded by a group of friends led by winemaker John Vorderman, with chef Gia Rokashvili in charge of the kitchen. Located in a 200-year-old house, all dishes are cooked right here and the menu changes daily depending on the season. Just trust the chefs to create delicious dishes like assorted chanterelles with butter, salt and a pinch of pepper, or roasted pork with white wine, peaches, rosemary, local peppers and raspberries – as well as some rare Georgian specialties, including unique natural wines made from varieties like Vardaspiri Rkatsiteli.
Lost Ridge Brewery
How about tasting some beer in Georgia’s wine country? Lost Ridge Brewery, part of the Lost Ridge Inn, can be considered one of the first, and certainly the most experimental, craft breweries in Georgia. Think, for example, of their Qvevris beer made from the famous Rkatsiteli grape. Sip beer on an open terrace overlooking the rolling hills and be amazed.
What to do
wine tasting
Wine tasting is a must when exploring Georgia’s top wine regions. The only question is whether it should be done in a marquee, family winery or a larger producer. What’s special about small wineries is that in Kakheti it’s very common to have your own winery on the ground floor of a house. Either way, be sure to book in advance. There’s usually no website, and some Instagram accounts suggest contacting them via DM.
Meet the creators of Query
To fully immerse yourself in ancient winemaking traditions, visit one of the few remaining qvevri makers. Admire the centuries-old art of amphora-making in the workshop of Zaza Kabilashvili, who took over the business from his father, Remi Kabilashvili. They only produce 40 qvevri per year, so plan your visit in advance. Since they don’t speak English, it’s best to go with a local or a tour guide.
Batonishich and Telavi Museum of History and Ethnography
To learn more about Kakheti’s rich history, visit the centrally located Batonis Tsikhe Fortress and its adjacent Telavi Museum. Built in 1664 as the residence of the Kakheti and Georgian kings, this striking Persian-style building is set in a picturesque park. The museum displays Stone Age artifacts, such as Kakhet clothing and furniture, as well as pottery used for cooking and daily life.
Telavi Bazaar
Stroll through the centuries-old Telavi Bazaar market and sample the fresh produce displayed on the colorful island. Open every day at 7am, this market is a great way to experience daily life in Tel Aviv. Also, the most famous Georgian candy churchkhela (a shiny candy made of walnut kernels coated with grape juice and thickened with wheat flour) hangs on almost every stall, as it does throughout the country, but its preparation method is difficult. It is a distinctive feature of Kakheti.
