Few garments are more closely linked to the evolution of fashion and the cultural status of women than the bra. From being functional in the past to fashionable today, bras have gone from being hidden objects to items that many women are proud to show off or even wear as tops.
Of course, as fashion moves forward, so do bras. Today’s lingerie brands have no shortage of comfortable and innovative options for all body types — from barely-there bandeaus to backless bras, and designers are constantly dreaming up bra-inspired runway and red carpet looks. In fact, the classic garments are so ingrained in our wardrobes and collective consciousness that it’s hard to imagine a time before they existed — whether you loved them, hated them, or wore them.
So the question is, who invented the bra? Below, take a look at the interesting evolution and history of the bra.
The ancient origins of the bra
The bra may seem really modern, but records of its existence or versions of it date back to ancient times. Some of the earliest evidence of bras can also be found in wall paintings, including the Roman mosaic of Villa Casale in Sicily, which dates back to the 4th century AD, and one in Crete from the 1300s, which depicts women wearing bandeau bras.
In India, the first mention of breast covering or kuchbandh – meaning “breast bandage” – is found in documents written during the reign of King Harshavardhana in the 7th century. Later, during the Ming Dynasty in China, from the 14th to the 17th century, women tied loose silk corsets around the neck and waist.
Because medieval clothing was very structured – think: corsets and corsets – the clothing acted as a support. But when the corset was introduced in the early 1500s, the female look changed forever. Keep the corset tight on the breasts – For centuries, corsets have been the only option for supporting the breasts.
1800s: Cutting Down the Corset
This all changed in the late 19th century, when whalebone corsets with built-in cups were introduced. Around the same time, “health corsets” – less restrictive at the waist and more supportive of the breasts – were introduced.
In 1889, the first bra “corset” was born in France when Hermine Cadolle cut the corset into two pieces. Cadolle’s Corselet Neck Brace, originally sold as a set, consisted of a waist-shaped top with straps designed to “support the chest and support the shoulders.”
Soon after, in 1893, Mary Tucek invented the underwire bra when she was granted a US patent for a version that had separate pockets for each breast and a piece of metal plate for support with straps over the shoulders.
The 1900s and the first “modern” bra
The American Escom first used the word “brassiere” in 1907, and when it was included in the Oxford English Dictionary in 1911, it became clear that it had truly entered the vernacular.
Most historians believe that the bra was invented by Mary Phelps Jacob in 1910, when she was only 19 years old. According to sources, Jacobs purchased a transparent gown for her first ball, but she could not find a corset that was not visible under the dress. Motivated by the needs of life, she created two silk handkerchiefs with ribbons. When friends and acquaintances asked her to create similar versions for them, she realized she had made a breakthrough. In 1914 she patented her design.
By the 1920s, bras had replaced corsets as the undergarment of choice for young women, especially for fashionistas who preferred a flat, girlish figure. It wasn’t long before lingerie and undergarment manufacturers began adding comfortable elastic to match the growing energy of the era.
Bras in the 1930s: cup sizes and synthetic fabrics
It wasn’t until 1932 that most lingerie designers realized how useful the proper fit was, and cup sizes, straps and eye hooks were introduced, and sizes A, B, C and D became the industry standard. In the 1930s, adjustable-sized maternity bras were also introduced.
The advent of nylon in the 1940s revolutionized the textile industry, with women purchasing form-fitting garments made from this new synthetic material in a variety of colors and prints.
Bras of the 1940s and 1950s: From Functionality to Fashion
During World War II, as women began working in factories, “torpedo bras” with pointed cups began to emerge. These were soon replaced by the “bullet bras” of the 1950s, which had tapered cups and were worn by Hollywood celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe, Jayne Mansfield and Lana Turner. I had never worn a bra like this before.
Suddenly, bras went from being lingerie to a fashion statement, forever changing the way we thought about lingerie. Nowhere is this more evident than at Frederick’s of Hollywood, a lingerie store opened in 1947 by Frederick Mellinger. These pieces came in bold colors and sizes and were crafted from satin and lace for feminine sensuality. Mellinger also sold the first push-up bra, which he called the “Rising Star” – a nod to the store’s location on Hollywood Boulevard and the bra’s ability to create a fuller, lifting look.
Bras of the 1960s and 1970s: feminism and the first sports bras
In the late 1960s, women began to rethink their staple garments and the expectations attached to their appearance. Bras—or rather, the desire to burn them—became synonymous with the feminist movement, which viewed bras as restrictive and uncomfortable.
Rethinking the role of bras and women in society continued over the next decade, when the first sports bra was created. In 1977, childhood friends Lisa Lindahl, Hinda Miller, and Polly Smith put two jockstraps together and named them the “Jogbra.”
Bras in the 1980s and 1990s: fashion and fantasy
In the 1980s, bra manufacturers began to increase the range of sizes offered; Wacoal was one of the first brands to offer H or K-sized cups. The fashion world also broke boundaries as celebrities such as Madonna and Grace Jones began to adopt wild bra-centric looks on stage and elsewhere.
By the 1990s, women in the Western world had a variety of bra types to choose from – padded bras, underwire, and push-up bras became the most common styles. The busty style was heavily promoted by retailers such as Victoria’s Secret, which launched the first jewel-encrusted “Fantasy Bra” in conjunction with the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 1995, while Calvin Klein introduced a clean, minimalist look;
With the rise of the body positivity movement in the 2000s and the rise of the athletic movement in the 2010s, more brands began offering bras with more comfortable construction and a wider range of sizes and styles. Bras and other styles that did not use wires became popular, and many women began wearing sports bras instead of cup bras, or stopped wearing bras altogether.
From the 2000s to Today: The Modern Bra
Today, there is a bra to wear with every outfit, whether it’s a plunging neckline or a backless dress, and for every body type, as there is a greater emphasis on inclusivity. Thanks to brands like Nubian Skin, Savage x Fenty, ThirdLove and Skims, the term “nude” no longer just refers to the color beige in lingerie; brands like Elomi, Freya and Pepper cater to all bust sizes; many retailers are even offering virtual fittings. And, as consumers seek sustainable lingerie options, brands like Arx, Everlane and Girlfriend Collective have emerged in this space.
The transformation of the bra reflects how modern women have evolved over the last hundred years and will surely continue to evolve.
