Pigmentation is caused by excessive production of melanin in certain areas of the skin, often due to sun exposure, acne scars, aging, inflammation, genetic factors, and hormonal changes. It can be difficult to treat without the right products, but it is possible. Serums are especially effective at reducing uneven skin tone, dark spots, melasma, and other types of discoloration.
What are the causes of pigmentation?
Dija Ayodele, an aesthetician and author of Dark Skin, explains that several factors can cause hyperpigmentation:
Sunlight: Sunlight is a major factor. UV rays stimulate the production of melanin, which leads to dark spots on more exposed areas of the skin.
Inflammation: Skin conditions such as acne, blemishes, or blackheads, especially when provoked, can trigger inflammation, which can lead to pigmentation. Eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions can also cause discoloration.
Mechanical damage: Repeated actions such as shaving, tweezing, threading or waxing can damage the skin, causing dark spots or patches.
Allergies: Allergic reactions, especially those that involve constant rubbing of the skin around the eyes or nose, can cause inflammation of the skin. This is especially noticeable on dark skin as the melanocytes are more active.
Injuries and wounds: Cuts, scrapes, and general wounds can leave areas of pigmentation as the skin heals.
Hormonal changes: Menopause and other hormonal fluctuations can affect the quality of skin, possibly increasing blemishes and hyperpigmentation.
Essentially, any source of inflammation or irritation, combined with the body’s natural response through melanin, can cause hyperpigmentation.
How to treat pigmentation?
Prevention and management of hyperpigmentation involves a combination of daily skin care practices and sometimes professional treatments. While pigmentation is a natural skin process, the following steps can help prevent it and fade existing dark spots:
Customize your skin care routine: A skin care routine tailored to your skin type can help maintain the integrity of the skin barrier, reducing irritation and inflammation that often lead to hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Use ingredients that inhibit pigmentation: Incorporating ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, or hydroquinone into your daily skin care can help control melanin production and prevent the formation or worsening of dark spots.
Apply SPF daily: Regular use of a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is essential to prevent hyperpigmentation. UV exposure can worsen dark spots and slow the fading process, so it’s important to protect your skin from the sun.
Get a professional treatment: Chemical peels can exfoliate the top layer of your skin, promote the production of new skin cells and help reduce pigmentation, while microneedling can stimulate skin healing and boost collagen production to improve the appearance of dark spots.
Why are serums so effective in combating hyperpigmentation?
“Serums are very fine and lightweight, so they penetrate the skin,” explains Ayodele, while Dr. Vanitha Rattan, cosmetic formulator and CEO of DRV Skincare, adds: “Serums with a higher fat content interact with silicone-based gels that absorb better into the skin than watery serums, but of course, it all depends on the ingredients,” she says. “You want a blend that works on pigmentation a little differently.” She recommends hexylresorcinol, alpha-arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone (prescription only), nicotinamide, vitamin C, retinoids and licorice extract. Tranexamic acid, which is similar to glutathione, also works well, while “glycolic acid, lactic acid and azelaic acid all help smooth and refine skin texture, removing old skin cells that may be clinging to old pigment on the skin’s surface”.
How long does it take to treat pigmentation?
“It depends on how stubborn the pigmentation is, how long it has been there and whether the trigger continues,” says Dr. Vanitha. “For example, if you have melasma and you are not using broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin from UV radiation, it will only get worse, especially in the summer,” she said, adding that it is easier to treat new pigmentation conditions right away, such as pimples or dark spots that appear after an insect bite. “If the pigmentation has been present for a long time, like melasma or dark circles, it is very difficult to treat. It can take six to nine cell cycles or six to nine months to see results.
