Take a look at your beauty cabinet, and chances are you have several pillars of your skincare arsenal. Hyaluronic acid is the best moisturizer. Retinol is a must for anti-aging. Vitamin C is a vital whitening agent. SPF values are non-negotiable. But is this the right or wrong way to apply them? How can we best layer them to maximize their benefits? Marcia Kilgore, the head of direct-to-consumer and subscription-based product line Beauty Pie, knows this. As the founder of at least three brands for all your skincare needs (Bliss, Sooper Duper, and now Beauty Pie), any advice she offers can be considered gospel. So what do you do? What are the key ingredients we shouldn’t skip in our daily routines? This is Kilgore’s definitive guide.
Choose wisely and adjust products according to changes in your skin
“Creating an effective skincare routine is all about choosing the right products at the right time and using them in the right order. You may already know your general skin type, but for serums and treatments, choose products that target your specific concerns. Maybe you’re experiencing more breakouts because the weather is more humid? Is your skin oilier than usual? Maybe you have a patch of persistent dryness on your skin. When layering products, it’s important to first determine what your skin really needs.”
Formulas are layered from light to heavy
“Once you’re equipped with your daily products, you should work from lightest to heaviest. Apply the thinnest, fastest-absorbing product to your face first, then the next thickest product on top, and then apply the next layers so the thickest formula is on top (then sunscreen and/or tinted SPF). Generally, apply products in this order: cleanser, toner/serum, treatment/mask, serum, eye cream, cream, oil, sunscreen The last thing you apply, and the only thing you should apply on top of it is powder, concealer, or foundation.
Make sure to use a serum
“Essence is a crucial step after cleansing. It not only nourishes, smooths and balances the skin’s pH, but also softens the epidermis, allowing actives to penetrate faster to power other products applied to the skin. Our JapanFusion Hydra Prep Serum Lotion is a high-tech micro-molecule tonic that you apply immediately after cleansing to soothe, balance, plump and moisturize your skin. It’s the perfect power magnet prep to enhance the performance of any product you apply next.”
Double Vitamin C
“Topical vitamin C has many benefits for your skin: boosts radiance; balances uneven skin tone; improves skin texture; helps fight fine lines and fade acne scars; brightens skin and helps repair damage caused by UV rays; improves pigmentation; plumps up appearance; long-term, it helps improve natural collagen production.
If you use a vitamin C serum, apply it to your face, neck, and décolletage morning and night after cleansing and before moisturizing. If you choose to use a vitamin C moisturizer, use it to your face, neck, and chest morning and night as the last step in your skin care routine, followed by SPF and/or foundation.
I double my dose of vitamin C (and resveratrol) in the summer, using the capsules in the morning and/or evening under a moisturizer or sunscreen and after retinol. I believe you can never have too many antioxidants when the sun is shining.
Hyaluronic acid should become a staple food
“Hyaluronic acid is found in everything from serums to creams and capsules to masks (and injections like Restylane or Juvederm). And it’s so powerful you may only need to incorporate it into your morning or evening routine. The benefits? It provides instant hydration; helps with barrier repair work; protects skin from inflammation (which, by the way, experts now believe is suitable for all skin types); it keeps your face looking plump, moisturized, and youthful; .
If using a hyaluronic acid serum, apply to clean skin under your day or night moisturizer. If you opt for creams containing hyaluronic acid, use them before SPF and/or foundation. Apply a hyaluronic acid mask after deep cleansing skin and before applying a serum or serum. Hyaluronic acid is also totally genius if you find yourself overexposed to the sun (feeling a little brittle, perhaps?).
Retinol is the gold standard in anti-aging
Apply retinol twice a day, morning and night, for best results—always use an SPF sunscreen in the morning. Yes, retinol is fine for summer use, as long as you always use high sun protection. Consistent use will yield the best results! It’s fine to combine retinol with acids, as long as the retinol you use is gentle enough. Our Super Retinol System uses microencapsulated time-release retinol, so it can often be combined with alpha hydroxy acids.
Never skip sunscreen
“Over 90% of skin damage is due to photoaging, which means that no matter how many good skincare products you use every day, no skincare product will achieve optimal results without using a good SPF every day. I recommend the super healthy skin ultra-light UVA/UVB SPF25 (from Japan), or the fabulous Italian tinted oil-free SPF 20 moisturizer for daily protection (adds a healthy glow to those Zoom calls!)
