Big screens backstage at Loewe showed celebrities arriving in style outside Chateau de Vincennes this morning (Ayo Edibiri and Josh O’Connor carpooled!). Inside, makeup artist Pat McGrath’s team was busy perfecting shimmering beauty looks from Jonathan Anderson’s spring/summer ’25 collection, which included sculptural transparent florals, flowing sequin minis and patterns designed for artists like Edouard Manet and Johann Sebastian Bach. “They said ‘modern fashion,'” Pat McGrath told me (she was wearing black cat-eye sunglasses as the model got ready to leave), and her conversation with Anderson inspired the catwalk’s glittery eyes.
On both models, the golden arches extend to the brow bone, McGrath said, “actually a half-moon eye, which we designed with Steven Meisel for Eskam and Karen Elson in the early ’90s.” “Then we created eight silver graphic eyes with wings — beautiful, right?” Indeed, the light caught the silver glitter on the model reading a paperback book (from McGrath’s personal archives), and it was like a perfect glittery tornado. To create this look, “we have the Luminous Legends: Giant Eyeshadow Palette, which she’s launching today,” McGrath said with a cheeky smile. The Golden Muse and Lunar Luxury pigments for the half-moon and graphic swoosh, respectively, “put a really nice glittery effect on top of both,” and for the gold, “a little bit of cutting foil.” To enhance the effect, apply mascara to the lashes, apply Skinfetish: Highlighter + Lipstick Duo to your face for the “glowing skin” that is true to her identity.
Not far away, Guido Palau was lying on a mat, getting ready to watch the performance. All in all, it was a chill day for hair, at least compared to last season’s neon anime bangs. “So it’s like we’re doing hair moments here, and then we’re not doing hair moments,” Palau said of striking a balance with Anderson. “He has a great sense of beauty and he knows what works for Loewe, and Pat’s makeup for the hair was a fashion moment, it was natural and nice.” “It’s all the little things, you know what I mean?” he added. “We’re looking at the girls’ hair to see if they need a little touch-up: Are they parted correctly? Do they need a little cream to get rid of some of the frizz? Personality is always above all for Anderson.
As they say, avoiding unnecessary information is a challenge in itself. “I think women, real women, have a hard time knowing if their hair looks good in its natural state or if it’s dirty,” Palau said. “It’s easy to take a curling iron or blow-dry your hair because you’ve already done that — I think women find it a little harder to figure out if their hair looks natural or not.” Today, “effortless” is right. “Jonathan’s clothes are really exceptional this season, with just the right amount of effortlessness to make it feel very modern,” Palau said, noting what a good red carpet moment really looks like. “Women will wear beautiful dresses and have beautiful natural hair in different ways: loose, wet, it’s a natural look that looks good.
