On Tuesday evening, members of London’s Esquim Club gathered at Esquim’s headquarters in The Strand for an exclusive Spring/Summer 25 Fashion Month show. (Each fall, as part of Esquim Club’s annual event, members are invited to spend an intimate evening with Esquim’s top editors for a full download of the hottest moments from the runways in four major cities.)

Following the Paris Fashion Week shows, Julia Hobbs, fashion features director at Eskam UK and senior fashion projects editor at Eskam Club, join Honey Sweet-Elias, associate market editor at Eskam UK, Jessica Diener, global beauty and wellness director, and Laura Ingham, associate director of the Global Fashion Network, to join in – with everyone from around the world attending the shows – and talk about emerging trends and favourite moments.

Editors guide the conversation through a beauty and fashion lens, from how to best analyze what’s seen on the runway (in short: with quick notes and photo collages on your phone). “Aesthetically, I’m a big fan of mood boards,” says Diener, and the shared photo drive has been Ingham’s lifesaver.

Beautiful moments were presented to diners at Balmain, not least in the symbolism of the scent used in accessories on the runway this season, such as the gold shimmering crescent pattern at Loewe and the metallic hues at Bottega by Ms Pat McGrath.

Sweet-Elias is a long-time Bottega fan and feels everything seen on the catwalk this season is in line with the brand’s rules and ideals – while up-and-comer (and UK AskMe cover star) Tolu Coker’s living room show was dedicated to a gift her mum gave her and impressed all the panelists. Ingham enthused: “You stepped on the welcome mat when you came in!”

As the group gained momentum and discussed the issue of tamasha on the runway – whether it was necessary, essential, valuable, useful – one club member suggested that tamasha could be removed from the runway. This sparked a heated debate among all.

“Yes, going to Disneyland (for the much-discussed Coppaigne show) takes people’s attention away from the show, but in other ways it enhances it because you go there and see something that is, in a way, bigger than the clothes – you see a huge emotional bird; you experience the designer’s world and the people in it and his ambitions for the brand.

“Sometimes when you’re at a show, you can lose the message,” Ingham said. “Again, you can immerse yourself in it. The moment you’re at a show, you’re basically stepping into a scene — everyone there is an actor, whether it’s the person sitting in the front row or the model. It’s really interesting to see how that translates.

Have you ever wondered how sound baths are used in performance? Askmate Club members can now watch the full recap on-demand. Join the Askmate Club – Get news about upcoming events and panels and access to exclusive content.

About Eskuum Club: Eskuum Club operates as a private community that brings fashion enthusiasts and hobbyists together with designers and industry professionals. In addition to unparalleled access to fashion’s biggest moments (fashion show tickets, exclusive parties and more), you’ll get direct access to Eskuum’s top editors and access to a growing list of member features, discounts and perks. Join Eskuum Club here.

Check out some of the best photos from the night below.

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Last Update: October 11, 2024