“When will we enter the 1990s?” one of my students asked when I was learning about the history of fashion in the 1950s – the golden age of haute couture! This student was one of many young people attending Eskum’s summer school program for pre-college students who wanted me to fast forward and enter the holy days of CBK. I replied disappointedly, “Only forty years left!”
Thankfully, I had the exact opposite disappointing experience at the Sturbridge show that opened tonight, which, apart from a few gems, was filled with retro and vintage pieces from TikTok’s favourite pre-fashion era. “This is not a 1990s Gauthier grid, nor is it 2000s work,” said exhibition curator David Brockman when he introduced the show to me a few hours before it opened. “If you want to try something from the ’30s, there’s probably some new stuff for you too,” he said, pointing me (a ’50s girl) to the stall of Evelina Vintage, which sells vintage items from the ’30s and ’30s. Taste.
This is a great show for vintage lovers – this well-organised show features stalls from 35 vendors from across the country. While Sturbridge’s clothes will surprise even the most seasoned fashionistas (Mary McFadden! Pierre Cardin! Zandra Rhodes!), the aim of the show was not to overwhelm.
“I wanted to do a show with only 35 dealers,” said Brockman. Brockman, who is an antiques dealer himself and runs Honeymoon Antiques in New York, purchased the Sturbridge Show, formerly known as Sturbridge, from Linda Zukas at the 2022 Sturbridge Vintage Clothing and Textile Show. Since then, the sartorial archaeologist has transformed the Altman Building on West 18th Street in Manhattan — the space formerly occupied by the legendary New York department store B. Carriage House — into three annual antiques fairs. The items once came from the Altman Corporation. “I wanted to create a very boutique-like, slow-paced shopping experience. I think that’s what everyone wants and something that’s really missing in the New York vintage scene — you can take your time.”
But don’t wait too long! These pieces will disappear quickly! My personal favorites are below, available by ticket only until tomorrow night.
Bonnie Cashin Jacket by TJS Sweet Repeats
Get it off the shelves because it’s coming home with me! This beautiful coat was made by Bonnie Cashin in the late 1960s (it’s very similar to this one in the Art Institute of Chicago Library and Special Collections), which also bears the Saks Fifth Avenue label, with leather piping and Cashin’s signature twist lock buttons. Cashin is an American designer who has helped define American style with his innovative and functional sportswear designs, and although he’s earned his place in American fashion history, he hasn’t found a place in my closet yet.
The Mary McFadden Trio of Orlando Vintage Clothing and Fabrics
When I heard the news of McFadden’s death a few weeks ago I was stunned. I was lucky enough to meet her and I told her that I wore a Mary McFadden gown on my civil wedding day. I have a few McFadden pieces in my wardrobe, but there is always room for more. I was delighted to see that Orlando Vintage (Florida Vintage booth in Winter Park) had three beautiful items on display that showcased McFadden’s range of products – from her couture label to her ready-to-wear items. My retro policy? When in doubt, buy McFadden.
Honeymoon Antique Cardin Leather Suit
Of course, there are some pieces on the Sturbridge exhibition stand that should not be missed. Upon entering the show, your eye will immediately fall on the fabulous leather suits. Brockman candidly admits that this one is his favorite – he has owned it for about 15 years, and now he is ready to sell it. (“It’s a great story because I bought it from a man who lived on 10th Street and Avenue D,” he said.) The owner was reportedly a talented woman who frequented Studio 54, and a fashionista. But the Cardin suit on my list is a buttery soft suit with a magenta suede stripe down the skirt’s V-neckline. Because, for me, it’s all in the details, I can’t deny the space-age circular zipper.
Rudi Gernreich Dress from Style 4 Vintage
Speaking of Rudi Gernreich, one of the Austrian-American designer’s pieces was spotted on a model during the two-day sale. This figure-hugging black knit halterneck gown features a sculptural silver neckline reminiscent of Elsa Peretti’s exquisite sterling silver pieces for Tiffany & Co. I’m not a minimalist, but when a piece like this truly embodies the concept of “less is more,” it’s hard to resist! Especially because it has such a long history! The dress is from spring 1975 and was tailored to style icon Peggy Moffatt. Gernreich also commissioned jeweler Christian Den Bleeker. On the inside of the collar you can see Den Bleeker’s inscription.
Nellie de Paris dress by Maria Niforos
Everything about the Maria Niforos booth appealed to me. There’s a beautiful collection of antique linens and laces, from lace-embroidered tulle dresses to Belle Époque gowns to handmade lace linen pillows woven with peach ribbons. The highlight, however, was Nelly de Paris’ two-piece set, which had a clear 1960s feel. This incredible piece (a silver empire waist dress) has so much pearl and embroidery work that it’s a challenge to pick out! The dress comes with a matching jacket, and with both of these, you’ll lose at least 30 pounds. This set looks like it’s ready for a Camelot-era White House celebration, and the best part is that the Nelly de Paris brand was a godsend for me. What’s better than coming home from an antique fair with a new item and learning about a new designer?
Oscar de la Renta New York Vintage Suit
Do you see the pure joy on my face? This is the work of Oscar de la Renta. I can’t say no to an old-fashioned Oscar and I was particularly impressed by this one. This velvet shirt-style top and velvet skirt set from the 1980s has gorgeous beading on the collar and waist. I think when people think of the 1980s, they remember power dressing like Mugler and Claude Montana, but there were also moments of extreme beauty and elegance which this piece symbolizes. I told myself I couldn’t buy “another black dress” but technically this was a skirt and top set!
Retro 101 / Osi Clark Dress from Cherry Bomb Vintage
Another favorite thing of mine is on display at Retro 101 in St. Louis, Missouri: a black pleated Ossie Clark dress created for Quorum, the famous London fashion emporium founded by Alice Pollock in 1964. The following year, the husband-wife design duo of Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell (he for the tailoring, Celia for the couture) joined forces as designers. The dress is like a snapshot of London, stepping out of the Mary Quant mod era and into the romantic 1970s. I loved it.
Zandra Rhodes dress from Honeymoon Antiques
The romanticism of the 1970s can be seen more in Brockman’s Honeymoon Antiques. The stunning tulle gown in Kelly Green with an all-over cactus print and pink floral embellishments on the hem is an example of how the designer evoked the hippie look of early 1970s youth. Rhodes is a woman of many talents, but I prefer her earlier work (like this one) to her upcoming punk-inspired looks.
Purple Velvet Adolf from Vintage NYC
Adolf is a designer who deserves more celebration. For that reason, and the fact that I can’t resist a velvet dress, this purple gown is on my list. This 1969 dress is a dream. The velvet skirt has top seams that add more depth to the piece, while the bell sleeves further enhance the bohemian chic of the piece. Additionally, the crystal embellishments on the hem and collar are in perfect condition.
orlando vintage clothing and fabric denim galanos clothing
The last piece of clothing on my list is from Galanos, which I never gave a second thought to. As he is known for his incredible and superbly sophisticated evening wear -you will find the best clothes at Galanos! -the denim fabric surprised me. However, the incredible princess seams that extend down the back give a luxurious look when worn, confirming that this is indeed the work of such a master. I am not a girl who wears jeans, but this dress convinced me!
