Gwyneth Paltrow is a retinol virgin. It’s true—she told me so herself over Zoom. “I helped Goop create it before I even tried it,” she says with a laugh. “You know, a lot of times people say, [retinol] is vague and can be very frustrating.” With the launch of Goop’s new 3x Retinol Regenerating Serum, the brand hopes to alleviate the issues associated with existing retinol formulas, like dryness, redness, skin peeling, etc. “After seeing our clinic, I knew I could trust it. So I was excited to get started.”
Available now for $150, the new retinol is on par with other luxury formulas available on the market, adhering to goop’s clean beauty standards and designed to avoid irritation despite being powered by three different retinols. It aims to achieve this through varying strengths of granular retinol, encapsulated retinol, and encapsulated retinol (the latter two are time-release), which are combined with plant-based biomimetic substances to repair pores and peptides to boost collagen production. These regenerating ingredients (called anti-aging agents) are buffered with ceramides, bisabolol, and beet, red bean, and licorice extracts to help strengthen the skin barrier, replenish moisture, aid healing, and limit inflammation. “It’s powerful and gentle at the same time,” she says.
Paltrow told me she started using the Regenerating Retinol Serum every day over the summer and has already noticed improvements in her skin condition. Over the past month, she said her wrinkles look less deep — one of the many benefits dermatologists recommend including retinol for. “Retinol treats and prevents fine lines and sagging by increasing skin cell turnover, improving texture and tone, and stimulating new collagen formation,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose previously explained. This process not only smooths wrinkles but also smooths skin texture, reduces dark spots, and brightens skin.
Let’s say you’re new to retinol, like Paltrow, and you want to start adding this ingredient. Your best bet is to choose a gentle formula that combines a vitamin A derivative with a nourishing agent, like goop’s new Regenerating Serum. Also, be sure to incorporate the same restorative, conditioning elements into your regimen during other stages of your daily life. For example, Paltrow combines retinol with a peptide serum (Youth-Boost by goop): “You get such a plump, hydrating finish.” Hyaluronic acid, growth factors, squalane, and ceramides also help with underlying dryness and irritation issues.
Paltrow’s second retinol tip relates to frequency of use. “Don’t do it every night right away,” she said. “You know, you can do a skin cycle to let your skin adjust to it.” Apply the active ingredients and then “rest” for a few days, Dr. Alexis Granite previously told Esquire. All of the products slough off dead skin, leaving skin looking brighter and more radiant. However, if your skin is more sensitive, consider a gentle treatment — perhaps a calming serum or a rich facial moisturizer — at night, retinol-free. Regardless of your nightly routine, Paltrow stresses using sunscreen every morning, as retinol can make skin more sensitive — even in the winter.
Goop’s new formula and Paltrow’s recommendations should cause no hesitation for those who want to try retinol (or change up theirs). Gentle and balanced aren’t words often used to describe this ingredient, but in Paltrow’s (admittedly very soft) hands, anything is possible.
