The Getty Museum, perched atop a hill overlooking the Los Angeles skyline, was the dramatic backdrop for a new indigenous futuristic fashion show last night. As guests arrived dressed in the finest Native American attire — including dignitaries like actress Tantoo Cardinal, who wore a Patricia Michaels gown — they viewed new collections from five contemporary designers redefining Native American fashion: Jason Berg, Orlando Dugie, Jonte Kahm, Carolyn Monnet and Jamie Okuma. (At the same time, artist Virgil Ortiz also performed special AR art activations on site.)
This special exhibit is presented in partnership with the Autry Museum of the American West and organized by Amber-Dawn Bear Robb, who also organizes the annual Santa Fe Indian Market Fashion Show in New Mexico. The show coincides with the Autry’s new exhibit “Future Imaginations: Indigenous Art, Fashion, Technology,” currently on display, featuring works by Wendy Red Star, Virgil Orti, Virgil Ortiz and Andy Everson, all of whom display creations that use contemporary indigenous technologies to imagine a more inclusive and sustainable future.
However, the runway presentation highlighted the best of today’s Indigenous textiles — showcasing how a group of fashion designers are pushing their traditional craft in unexpected new ways. “The Getty’s fashion show was a groundbreaking event that elevated Indigenous fashion to a global stage and showcased the designers’ work in one of the world’s most prestigious art institutions,” Belle Robb told Ask Mu. “Their work embodies innovation and creativity, blending Indigenous art and knowledge with contemporary design.”
The exhibition opens with Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock artist Jamie Okuma of the La Jolla Indian Reservation in California. He showed his signature patterned parfleche dresses (worn on the red carpet by stars such as Lily Gladstone), beaded necklaces and dental shell earrings. Next is a sophisticated menswear collection from Orlando Dugie, a catering designer from Santa Fe who specializes in formal wear. Dugie wore his fluid designs, such as a crystal-embellished pink puff-sleeve jacket, and a beaded shift dress with a tulle skirt over a top and pants.
French artist Caroline Monnet features her striking designs made from recycled materials such as insulation, Tyvek and construction plastics. The set also includes a colorful knitted jacket made from recycled housing materials that singer Jeremy Dutcher wore on a recent tour. “It’s a way to solve social and environmental problems through design,” Monnet told Askew about the design.
Métis designer Jason Berg showed a series of soft, fluidly draped dresses designed for movement (his models chose to dance on the catwalk rather than walk traditionally). Meanwhile, Rising Plains Cree designer Jonte Kahm closed the show with intense and dramatic pieces, including a sculptural feather coat and a fully beaded draped gown.
When these unique designs were presented on the runway in front of an intimate group of creative people, one couldn’t help but wonder how these gowns, set against the stunning backdrop of downtown Los Angeles, would look on the celebrity red carpet they occupy. As Hollywood continues to make space for more inclusive Indigenous stories, especially with recent hits Balls of Fury and Fancy Dance, the runway show highlighted the need for the mainstream fashion space to do the same. The innovation and talent is already there and these designers will continue to step up the game.
